When Sour Becomes Sweet: From Lemons to Limoncello

By Lauren Herinckx

Where it Began: Lemons

Lemons are found all around the world. Most lemons are acidic in taste and about 50 millimeters in diameter. Sfusato Amalfitano lemons, found in the Amalfi Coast of Italy, are sweeter and larger, measuring two to three times larger than lemons from other parts of the world. Additionally, the lemons carry a strong scent, and are commonly used in the making of essential oils or soaps. Sfusato Amalfitano lemons are also only somewhat acidic and have juicy pulps. These characteristics are favorable for the limoncello making process.

Sfusato Amalfitano lemons are used for more than just gelato. BGA in Piazzetta, a sorbetto shop in Capri, serves sorbetto made from Amalfi lemons in the lemons themselves.

The Siracusa, or Femminello, lemon, is native to Sicily, has similar characteristics to Sfusato Amalfitano lemons, and is also commonly used in the making of limoncello.

In addition to their unique flavor and size properties, Sfusato Amalfitano and Femminello lemons are grown in a unique way. Above the lemon trees, wooden frame structures are built, and the branches of the lemon trees grow between them. These frames protect the trees from harsh weather. Along with the frames, the lemons are also farmed on terraces, due to the mountainous nature of the region in which they are found.

History of Limoncello

Sorrento, Italy not only has shops dedicated to lemon-themed gifts, but also is home to lemon tours and experiences.

The towns of Sorrento, Amalfi and Capri all claim to be the originators of limoncello. However, limoncello does not extend as far back as many people may expect. Records of limoncello only go back to the beginning of the 20th century, and Limoncello di Capri was not trademarked until 1988, by Massimo Canale.

Canale, however, was not the inventor of limoncello. That title is given to Maria Antonia Farace. Farace lived on Capri, and had a garden of lemon and orange trees. After World War II, Farace’s nephew opened a restaurant, and used his aunt’s limoncello recipe when he sold the product to customers. Massimo Canale was the restauranteur’s son, and started producing more limoncello and trademarked the brand.

While this account of the history of limoncello is seen as the “official” story, many different legends about the history of the drink exist. Sorrentinis claim that the prestigious families of Sorrento of the early 1900s served limoncello to all of their guests, and Amalfitanis say that limoncello goes back much further than a century, going as far back as lemons have been cultivated. The word limoncello is thought to have originated from a nickname for small lemons.

The wine bar is popular with study abroad students like Katie and Katie from Syracuse.

“Limoncello is only produced in Sicily,” said a waitress at Giulio Bistrot Wine Bar in Florence.

While limoncello itself is a generic term, authentic limoncello from Sicily, Limoncello Siciliano, has a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), meaning that only limoncello produced in the Sicily region can carry a Limoncello Siciliano label.

Sorrento and Amalfi limoncellos have this classification as well, so consumers know that any limoncello certified as PGI is authentic from the region stated. Limoncello from Sorrento must have a 30% or higher alcohol content to be certified as PGI, while limoncello from Amalfi must be at least 25% alcohol. Sugar content is also restricted to a certain range.

During the day, customers order light lunch foods, and at night the wine bar is a popular place for friends to get drinks together.

Other known products with PGIs include Kölsch beer, which can only be produced within 30 kilometers of Cologne, Germany, and Champagne, which can only be produced in the Champagne region of France.

Florence: Giulio Bistrot

Duomo view from Giulio Bistrot

Capri: Da Alberto

The Process

Limoncello has only four ingredients: lemon zest, sugar, water and alcohol.

“It’s the easiest drink to make, you make it with lemon zest and sugar,” Angelo Vizzi said. Vizzi is a waiter at Osteria San Fiorenzo in Florence, a restaurant near the Basilica di Santa Croce. “If you go in Sorrento, [sic] there’s the best one.”

Vizzi enjoys having fun with his customers, such as taking a selfie with a table of students after serving them limoncello.

To make the drink, the lemon zest is first steeped in vodka or ethanol, and the oil that is released through this process is mixed with simple syrup, which is equal parts sugar and water. Important to note is that the lemons must be untreated with pesticides, as the rind is what is used to make limoncello. The absence of pesticides is another requirement for limoncellos to become PGI certified. The zest should be steeped for six days in a sealed container. After the six days are up, the resulting oil and simple syrup mixture should be sealed for a month before consumption. This fairly simple process makes it an easy liqueur for amateurs to make.

Culture

At Osteria San Fiorenzo, customers are served free limoncello after dinner.

Limoncello is traditionally served chilled and enjoyed after dinner as a digestivo, a drink to aid in digestion. Served in shot glasses, the drink is not meant to be downed in one gulp, but is meant to be sipped on, unlike other drinks commonly served in the same size glass. The reason for the small serving size is that limoncello does not stay cold for long due to its alcohol content, and drinking multiple small serving sizes instead of a larger glass ensures that the limoncello will always be cold.

Limoncello has also evolved into an aperitivo or dinner drink in cocktail form, as a limoncello spritz. This variation on the famous Aperol spritz, which is found throughout Italy, contains limoncello, sparkling wine and soda water, along with a mint garnish. Other, less popular, limoncello cocktails include the limoncello mojito, which includes limoncello and rum, or the limoncello martini, which contains lemon juice and vodka.

Appeal

“Limoncello is popular in Italy because it's so sweet,” said the wine bar waitress. While regular lemon juice is bitter, the added sugar in limoncello makes it an appealing drink for people looking to avoid the bitterness of other popular Italian liquors like Campari or Aperol. Beyond Italy, limoncello is also popular in the United States and United Kingdom, and can be found in stores worldwide. In the Netherlands, limoncello has even gotten popular enough to have its own day, National Limoncello Day, on June 22nd.

Ceramics shops in Capri heavily feature lemon patterned items.

Although it is only over a century old, limoncello has cemented itself as a symbol of the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento. The region is home to stores dedicated to limoncello, and lemons feature prominently in art and keepsakes sold in tourist areas. The popularity of limoncello continues to grow today with no sign of slowing down, as more and more people discover the sweet southwest Italian liqueur.