The Sweet Life: Navigating Gelato in Italy

By Madison McClelland

Gelato in metal tins is a strong indicator that the gelato is being kept at the right temperature.

Italy is a popular vacation spot filled with history and beauty, but tourists are often warned about the dangers that follow a trip to the country's major cities. Pickpocketing and scams are easily at the top of the list, though there is another danger overenthusiastic tourists fall prey. Luring them in with its fragrant aroma, this threat leaves pockets empty and stomachs full: gelato.

This sweet treat has followed a path to fame, resulting in the streets of Italy being decorated with gelato shops.

Cup or cone, gelato can be found in the hands of many. The density and intensity of the flavors allows for a different experience from that of sorbet or ice cream. Gelato is typically fresh and slow to melt. The elasticity of the dessert makes for an interesting texture, but one that most people certainly enjoy.

Origins of Gelato

Looking back into the sweet history of this compelling confection, the beginning traces back to the origins of frozen desserts. Though the roots are in Chinese culture, Romans soon joined in when they began to utilize the ice from, what would become, Italian volcanoes. The Romans took the ice and flavored it with honey.

While the ice of Etna and Vesuvius provided a treat for the Romans many years ago, the modernity of gelato begins with the Italian Renaissance. The minds behind it all were that of the Medici family. They sponsored a contest, seeking the greatest frozen dessert. Individuals entered this contest, but only one was successful: Cosimo Ruggeri.

Ruggeri was no chef; in fact, he was an alchemist and an astrologer. He worked closely with Caterina de Medici and developed a type of gelato, though it is not the gelato we know today.

Beyond Ruggeri, there was Bernardo Buontalenti. Similar to Ruggeri, he was not a chef. He was a stage designer and architect. He is considered the “inventor” of gelato, as his recipe was developed into the gelato that is seen through the streets of Italy. Rather than creating a similar sorbet-like creation, this recipe used egg cream, allowing it to be the thicker consistency that is known all too well.

While the recipe of gelato was solidified by this point, it was not as popular. This changed when Francesco Procopio got the word out about this frozen dessert. He even opened a café in France, called Le Procope. This was one of the first cafes in the area, and he was able to bring the delicacies beyond Italy.

Fruit flavors are common amongst gelato shops; however, it is important they utilize the freshness of fruit, including when it is in season.

As gelato started to gain traction, and it was a must-have among visitors, technology needed to follow this rapid pace. Bruto Carpigiani is the name behind many of the technological innovations for gelato. His initial machine allowed for a more efficient and quick process, and it was more hygienic. When he passed, his brother created Carpigiani, the label that is now famous and a leader in the making of Italian gelato machines around the world. The company is located near Bologna and there is now a museum dedicated entirely to gelato, the first and only of its kind.

The Sweetest Con

When it comes to gelato, the process of choosing a shop and knowing what to look for can be overwhelming. There are a few tips, though, that can help ease the process and make your gelato experience a good one.

One of the more important details when it comes to good gelato is to look for what it is served in. It is easy to spot shops that have mounds of gelato in the window, but surprisingly the best gelato doesn’t need to show off. When the gelato is in metal tins (or even better with lids), one can know that it is being kept at the proper temperature. The mounds indicate extra ingredients that detract from the fresh and natural appeal of gelato.

Furthermore, more muted colors indicate more natural ingredients. Coloring doesn’t need to be added to heighten the experience. Bright colors and decorations may be compelling, but this does not equate to a good cup of gelato.

The mounds of gelato seen in some shop windows indicate that air has been pumped into it, or there are additives. Volume may trump flavor for these shops.

“I think the big, colorful mounds definitely catch people's attention,” visitor Erica McDonal says. “When you look up ‘good gelato places’ though, that’s not what pops up.” She found herself looking up places before her visit, and things to look for. The “less flashy” places were the ones she found herself drawn to more.

Essentially, a specific phrase can be used to guide visitors through gelato picking: less is more.

The Place to Be

Italy has many places to enjoy gelato. Taste testing and exploring all of these shops would be time consuming. There are two shops in Tuscany, however, that have served gelato that checks all of the boxes: La Sorbettiera and Gelateria Dondoli.

La Sorbettiera

La Sorbettiera has two locations in Florence, though they have a few other locations elsewhere. Antonio, the founder, has been around gelato for nearly his entire life. From just 14 years old, he has learned the ways of gelato from Germany. He founded La Sorbettiera with his wife Elisa in 2007 and the initial Florence location has been around since 2009.

Customers gather outside the shop, eating the gelato they have ordered.

The gelato shop sits just by a park, so customers can sit on the street in their seats or travel through greenery just across from the location. Upon arrival, visitors will be able to spot the metal tins, which also have lids. The staff are extremely friendly and helpful, greeting you almost immediately and encouraging your flavor choices.

“This was just something we stumbled upon, and I’m glad we did. It’s delicious,” Sophia Dominguez says. This shop that is further from the typical gelato stops of the city center seemed to call out to her.

The shop has multiple flavors, and those of the fruit variety are fresh. La Sorbettiera manages to create a welcoming environment and is one of the shops that people should aim to visit for the frozen dessert known around the country.

Gelateria Dondoli

Gelateria Dondoli is an award winning gelato shop in San Gimignano. The shop opened 30 years ago in 1992, and the founder Sergio continues to uphold the reputation of the shop worldwide.

Claiming the title “Maestro Gelatiere”, Sergio has created different flavors for Gelateria Dondoli. While one can usually walk into a gelato shop and pick the same flavors each time, Gelateria Dondoli brings a new experience to the table. The experimentation with different flavors and local ingredients allows visitors to try flavors they could not get their hands on anywhere else, making the experience even more memorable. Some of Sergio’s initial creations have become some of the shop’s most popular and famous flavors: Crema di Santa Fina, Dolceamaro, and Champelmo. The menu is already big to begin with, and these flavors add to the experience.

McDonal talks about her time finding this place. “Well, you don’t go to Italy and not get gelato,” she laughs. “When I was trying to find a good place to go, I found [Gelateria Dondoli]. I looked them up to see what was so special and, like, I was sold. You can get strawberry or vanilla anywhere, but where could I get something like this?” she states as she motions to her cup of gelato.

The line to the shop extends beyond the doors into the plaza. Here, possible customers await and begin to plan their options.

Gelateria Dondoli has accumulated quite the following. It is rare to visit the shop and not have to wait in line. The shop sits in a plaza and is easily identifiable due to the line that extends from the shop doors to the middle of the plaza. Since the shop sees a mass of people daily, they seem to have mastered more than just the art of gelato: the art of quickly taking care of customer’s orders.

The process is quick. Customers flood into the building, headed toward the back to fill up as much space as possible. The workers are attentive and manage to work at a very quick pace, rarely leaving anyone waiting too long. Customers order, receive, and pay all within a matter of minutes. There is not a place to sit within the store, so it is common to see people standing outside or walking around the city with their gelato in hand.

The shop has won the title of “Gelato World Champion” for the years 2006/2007 and 2008/2009. With such an award, Gelateria Dondoli has hosted many Italian celebrities, like Andrea Bocelli, and continues to compete in competitions. Beyond making the gelato themselves, they also hold gelato courses for visitors to get the full experience.

The Lingering Taste

The immense amount of options demand visitors should be selective. With an eye for metal tins and a distaste for extravagant mounds, the decisions to be made regarding this treat may become easier. When strolling down the streets of the cities within, take some time to give in to the sweet temptation that calls out, for gelato awaits.