The Sant’Ambrogio Market: Where Local Food Fosters Community

Written by Clare Meyers

Crates overflow with seasonal fruit at the Sant'Ambrogio Market located in central Florence.

When foreigners picture Italian food culture, they envision plates heaped with whorls of spaghetti, expansive wine menus, and metal bins filled with rich gelato. Their vision isn't wrong. Italy is home to remarkably delicious pasta, wine, olive oil, gelato, and other delicacies – all of which are sources of endless pride for the Italian people.

Yet outside of the trattorias serving signature dishes, another key aspect of Italian food culture lies within the local markets.

Unlike the United States, where people's primary sources of produce are the aisles of Publix, Kroger, or Walmart, Italians buy the bulk of their groceries from markets, or "mercati." Typically structured with an outside section for fruits and vegetables and an inside section for meat and cheeses, these markets pride themselves on being an affordable source of fresh, quality products for locals.

In Florence, the largest and most well-known market is the Mercato Centrale, also called the San Lorenzo market. While it is certainly impressive with its overabundance of stalls and mouth-watering displays, travel 20 minutes southeast, and you'll find a smaller, lesser-known market that is far more local. Its name is the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio.

History of the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio

Named after the church a few streets down, the Sant’Ambrogio Market was built in 1873, which, as its website boasts, makes it the oldest market in Florence. It was created by Italian architect Giuseppe Mengoni, who is famous for designing the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. Mengoni’s design for the market was congruent with the period of remodeling that was kickstarted in 1865, when Florence was temporarily appointed the capital of Italy. The San Lorenzo Market, also designed by Mengoni during remodeling, was constructed a year later in 1874.

At the time, the Sant’Ambrogio neighborhood was considered to be an unofficial Jewish ghetto. In fact, Florence’s main synagogue, which today dually functions as the Jewish museum of Florence, began construction a few blocks north of the market around the same time.

After over 150 years, both the market and the Jewish community are still present and thriving, and the neighborhood is generally considered to be relatively diverse and progressive.

Things to Know

Today, the market is open Monday through Saturday from 7am to 2pm, and it remains one of the few places in the city where Florentines outnumber tourists. Due to this, however, many of the vendors do not speak English, so make sure to brush up on your Italian before planning a visit.

The layout of the market can roughly be divided into three different sections: produce, meat, and consignment.

Produce

Located outside, the produce section is where you’ll find heaps of fresh fruits and vegetables, in addition to vendors selling flowers and hand-bottled goods. These products are almost all grown and produced locally, resulting in quality even fresher than that of Conad, Florence’s main grocery store.

While the prices are typically written somewhere on the crates of produce, they’re negotiable. Additionally, vendors will often give repeat customers a reduced price to maintain a mutually beneficial relationship.

One standout point about the Sant’Ambrogio market, and Italian markets in general, is its seasonality. Italy is a country that puts a lot of value on eating fresh, which means eating certain foods only when they’re in season. This practice is very clearly demonstrated by the ever changing options available at the market. For example, during fall, it's common to find crates brimming with pumpkins and porcini mushrooms, whereas during the later months of spring, these goods are replaced by asparagus and cherries.

Berries, which are in season during the summer months, begin to populate the market in late May.

This practice of seasonal eating not only supports local farmers and the economy, but it allows Italians to enjoy their food at its freshest and most flavorful. It also fits in with the country’s overall focus on sustainability and harmony with nature.

Meat and Cheeses

Moving to the inside portion of the market, you'll be confronted with the irresistible scent of cured meats, cheeses, and freshly baked bread. From prosciutto to Florentine steak, this section of the market is a carnivore’s dream. The local artisans and butchers behind the counters are happy to converse with customers and give advice on the best cuts and flavor pairings.

This section also has vendors selling ready-to-eat breakfast and lunch options, such as paninis and pastries.

Florentines converse with the butchers and select fresh meat from the inside portion of the market.

Consignment

Back outside, next to the produce section, is the consignment section, which is reminiscent of a garage sale. Here you’ll find new and used clothes, jewelry, and other knick-knacks. The vendors here are especially chatty, encouraging you to try on the clothes and bragging about the incredibly low prices of their jewelry. If you're lucky, you might be able to find a used leather jacket or cashmere sweater for a fraction of the usual cost.

Shoppers dig through the mounds of clothing to try and find the best deals.

The Vendors

Part of what makes this market so charming is its vendors. Each showcasing their unique products and adding their own touch of charm to the atmosphere, the vendors are happy to make you feel welcome.

For Anna Guglielmone, the Sant’Ambrogio market has given her a place to kick-start her own business and spread the flavors of Italy.

“I have been selling here for a little more than a year, and it has been great,” said Guglielmone.

Her business is focused on selling the specialties of each Italian region, and most of the items she sells are nonperishables.

“Here we have pistachios straight from Sicily, and to the right, we have the famous arbutus honey, carob, and myrtle, all from Sardinia,” Guglielmone said as she pointed to her products.

Guglielmone only sells at the market Wednesdays and Thursdays, so keep that in mind if you plan on trying her regional specialties.

Over at the plant booth, you might find Marco Atrei doling out flower advice to those perusing his selection.

“It has been a good period for the sale of plants and flowers, even if lately the weather hasn’t helped,” said Atrei.

He’s referring to the rain and cold that has plagued the city for the past few weeks, which has created an unusual May for Florence, since this time is normally dry and temperate. Yet, despite the unfortunate weather, Atrei seemed satisfied with recent sales and opportunistic for the future of his buisiness.

For tourists desiring to escape the crowds and live like a local, the Sant’Ambrogio market is a great option. However, it's crucial to approach the market, and its inhabitants, with respect. At its core, this vibrant marketplace serves as a sanctuary for locals, fostering a strong sense of community. Barging in expecting them to speak English and cater to your requests would undermine its very purpose and disrupt this safe haven.